TOPIC:

Hello , beside obviously only needing one rod for sliders , if the extra rod is not an issue, which do you experienced downrigger users prefer, slider or stacker and why.
I'm relatively new to rigger fishing and looking for ways to optimize their use.

Also if I'm running a spoon either on a slider or stacker-: what are you running off the ball? Flasher, Spin doctor, another spoon? Just trying to get this dialed in. I appreciate all replies, thanks,

I'm not real sure what you mean by stackers? Anyway with sliders, normally we like to run the main bait (off the ball) a bit shorter than we would if it was a single bait on the line. This seems to help with our hook up numbers. I actually like the slider above a dodger or flasher. It seems to get the ones that won't commit to the flash.
Now & then we will run a "fixed" slider. That's nothing more than a half hitched rubber band on the main line to hold the slider at that place above the main. Don't forget to hook the slider onto the main line when setting these. I've seen a lot of non-rookies make that mistake. Once the bite happens either the rubber band breaks or slides down to the main bait. This was something we did when fishing near the bottom & trying to keep more baits in the ZONE. I hope this helps.

Stacking a rigger costs you a rod in your spread for the extra lure while the slider, sliding or fixed does not. Riggers are important in your spread but I think you will find out that weighted lines on boards will net you more fish in the long run. I prefer to use the long lines, dipsies, and my 2 electric riggers. If the riggers are not firing regularly you would have another inactive rod.

Hey Wildcat Tim, this is a stacker
You snap ,then use the short release to clip to your rigger cable then run your line from second rigger rod to second release clip.
Let's you fish two rods at set depths off one rigger.
The cons are it ties up two rods the pros are it gives you precise depth where a slider does not.
Of course reading about your rubber band method - you also get depth control with one rod too, very nice

Steelie wrote:

Stacking a rigger costs you a rod in your spread for the extra lure while the slider, sliding or fixed does not. Riggers are important in your spread but I think you will find out that weighted lines on boards will net you more fish in the long run. I prefer to use the long lines, dipsies, and my 2 electric riggers. If the riggers are not firing regularly you would have another inactive rod.

I now have riggers and dipsys( adding wire dipsys for my deep ones this year) . If i don't use my stacker rods I will have two extra to run weighted steel line( same depths as copper but no kinks)
What lengths of weighted line do you recommend, I've never used the stuff before.

I used to run stackers and no doubt they can be effective. However, what works in principle, isn't always so in reality. In actual conditions, stackers tend to tangle frequently with the line sharing the cable. When the bottom line gets bit, it often snags the top line unless you run the stacked line tight to the wire and put extra curve in the bottom line. Of course, if you do, and the fish hits the top bait, hope it doesn't come up on the opposite side of the bottom line. Basically, just a hassle.

I often use sliders however, I don't like to put a slider on a line with a dodger or flasher on the bottom, though some , like Tim, do it and cope with the tangles. I often run a small dodger and fly as a free slider, however - mostly in the spring. Spoon or plug 20 - 25 feet - free slider above it at seven or eight feet deep.

Fixed sliders in the summer - usually two spoons - one just under the thermocline - the second one about 10 feet up in the thermocline.

Thanks Bnature and everyone else too, wealth of info from this site.

Ltrain wrote:

Steelie wrote:

Stacking a rigger costs you a rod in your spread for the extra lure while the slider, sliding or fixed does not. Riggers are important in your spread but I think you will find out that weighted lines on boards will net you more fish in the long run. I prefer to use the long lines, dipsies, and my 2 electric riggers. If the riggers are not firing regularly you would have another inactive rod.

I now have riggers and dipsys( adding wire dipsys for my deep ones this year) . If i don't use my stacker rods I will have two extra to run weighted steel line( same depths as copper but no kinks)
What lengths of weighted line do you recommend, I've never used the stuff before.

I use both lead and nickel plated copper weighed lines. 3,5,8,10 colors of lead core and 100, 150, 200 and 250 feet of copper. I have 2 each of the 100 and 150’s as they are the most popular with the fish on my boat. I myself learned a little last season on the use of snap on weights from a trip with GC and Bob. We took a 100 ft rod and added some weight to the line and made it run deeper. How much I don’t know. This is going to be another thread I would like to start and get some ideas and facts about using weights. A guy might not need all those extra lengths of line once you figure the science out. I even made a set at home to try out.

Steelie wrote:

Ltrain wrote:

Steelie wrote:

Stacking a rigger costs you a rod in your spread for the extra lure while the slider, sliding or fixed does not. Riggers are important in your spread but I think you will find out that weighted lines on boards will net you more fish in the long run. I prefer to use the long lines, dipsies, and my 2 electric riggers. If the riggers are not firing regularly you would have another inactive rod.

I now have riggers and dipsys( adding wire dipsys for my deep ones this year) . If i don't use my stacker rods I will have two extra to run weighted steel line( same depths as copper but no kinks)
What lengths of weighted line do you recommend, I've never used the stuff before.

I use both lead and nickel plated copper weighed lines. 3,5,8,10 colors of lead core and 100, 150, 200 and 250 feet of copper. I have 2 each of the 100 and 150’s as they are the most popular with the fish on my boat. I myself learned a little last season on the use of snap on weights from a trip with GC and Bob. We took a 100 ft rod and added some weight to the line and made it run deeper. How much I don’t know. This is going to be another thread I would like to start and get some ideas and facts about using weights. A guy might not need all those extra lengths of line once you figure the science out. I even made a set at home to try out.

Snap weights are used alot on Erie for walleye. They are speed dependent. It's best to use the precision trolling app for that ,for walleye it's usually a 2 oz weight.

I use tadpoles which have published dive curves. The #3 and magnum size can get you down there. I use the 1 and 2 size for walleye and early season coho myself.

I ran true stackers from time to time, and they can be very effective. Typically only early in the morning when fish may be ultra aggressive. I think I did it once or twice in 2020. I remember I had a moment in June of 15 or 16 where I had 4 rigger fish on once. That was fun